This guide has been taken from R1-Forum.com, the original is here: https://www.r1-forum.com/threads/how-to-04-06-r1-replace-stator-generator.212187/

I have taken the guide and pictures and remade it here with some edits to wording and image presentation to preserve this information for anyone in the future that may be affected and may not be able to access the images and forum posts if something were to happen to the R1 forum. Full 100% credit goes to Kangaroo from the R1 forum for this awesome write-up. I have followed this guide and done the work on my own 2005 R1 so I know the guide is correct.

The images show a generator before it has been damaged but the steps are still the same to replace your damaged unit.

This is helpful if your stator ever needs replacing. Long story short, I had a small oil leak caused by shoddy dealer work a year ago. So as i had everything taken off, I might as well get this one done too. While in there, I checked on the entire generator assembly. Be careful taking this apart as collars and washers can fall into the case, then you’ll have to take the entire exhaust and oil pan off to fish it out. Don’t ask me how I know… :dundun:

Tools needed:
5mm allen wrench
6mm allen wrench
10mm allen wrench
14mm socket – i’ll explain later
new generator cover gasket
new o-ring
new motor oil for lubrication

Note for each step of the build add a nice coating of engine oil to the parts

 

5VY R1 Generator charging system disassembly
Disassembly as per manual
5VY R1 Generator disassembly
5VY R1 Generator disassembly

Pic 3, the parts taken apart and cleaned with wd40, note the stator is bolted onto the generator cover

5VY generator disassembled
5VY generator disassembled

 

Disassembled magneto rotor

 

Dampers inserted into drive gear

Drive gear then mated to the rotor, make sure to get a snug fit

drive gear then mated to the rotor, make sure to get a snug fit

Add washer, not pictured, then the starter clutch drive gear, when on it’ll spin only in one direction. Add collar, 1 of 2 but both have different diameters, will give a very snug fit.

Add washer, not pictured, then the starter clutch drive gear, when on it’ll spin only in one direction. Add collar, 1 of 2 but both have different diameters, will give a very snug fit.

 

Add 2nd washer

Last collar one side is flat and the other beveled inward to mate with the rotor shaft. Flat end faces out. The o-ring to replace is inside the collar. You’ll need an exacto to get the old one out.

Last collar one side is flat and the other beveled inward to mate with the rotor shaft. Flat end faces out. The o-ring to replace is inside the collar. You’ll need an exacto to get the old one out.

How it should look, completely assembled before reinstalling back into the engine.

How it should look, completely assembled before reinstalling back into the engine.

To slide the assembled unit in, aim for the hole that will be visible where the rotor shaft mates up. If you get it in a little bit but then doesn’t go in all the way, the crankshaft gear is off a little, so open the crankshaft access on the right side, 2nd pic, and insert a socket to the crank, give it a good notch turn, you’ll feel it, go back and push in. If it doesn’t go in, give it another crank. Then when the gears line up, it’ll slide right in.

To reinstall the cover, place pins and gasket on the clean interface. Cover will slide right on. Add some silicone to the part where the rubber connector mates up. Tighten in a criss-cross pattern to the proper torque. Last screw back in the plug with the 10mm allen. and you’re done.

 

To slide the assembled unit in, aim for the hole that will be visible where the rotor shaft mates up. If you get it in a little bit but then doesn’t go in all the way, the crankshaft gear is off a little, so open the crankshaft access on the right side
insert a socket to the crank, give it a good notch turn, you’ll feel it, go back and push in. If it doesn’t go in, give it another crank.
To reinstall the cover, place pins and gasket on the clean interface. Cover will slide right on. Add some silicone to the part where the rubber connector mates up. Tighten in a criss-cross pattern to the proper torque. Last screw back in the plug with the 10mm allen. and you’re done.

 

It is also a good idea to remove the sump (requires removal of the exhaust) and clean out everything. The sump pick up can be blocked by debris from the rotor magnets pieces going everywhere!

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